I'm looking to buy a Cessna 310 on Tuesday. The aircraft has been setting since 1997 in the hanger. This 310 was well maintained and nice but... setting is a No.. No. The aircraft has very little corrosion and that's a big plus.
I'm a A & P but have never dealt with an aircraft that has set this long, about 16 years. Yes, I realize that this is not the only issue. I want to deal with the engines (mostly) on this specific post.
What I have in mind:
Remove Spark plugs and spray 10 wt. oil in cylinders and hand turn the engine through several times to lubricate cyl. walls. Take Cyl. Leakage readings & record. Clean spark plugs, rack them for reinstall a little later.
Drain All Fuel and Purge Fuel Lines, then re-service with fresh fuel and all filters.
Replace battery and make sure it's fully charged.
Change Oil, Filter and screen(s).
Inspect Cyl's. for mouse or birds nests with cowling off. Check all lines and connections to engine. This aircraft has some fuel lines that are A D'd and this is the time to comply with the reoccurring AD.
After all the (above) items are completed, connect battery and re-load a small amount of 10 wt. oil in cyl's. . Turn engine backwards by hand with spark plugs still out. After this, turn engine over (by starter) to read oil pressure on aircraft gauge, about 30 seconds. Check for any leaks after engine crank. Will have small amount of oil from spark plugs holes, clean oil up. Install about 10 gals per tank and check for leaks (everywhere). Select Prime and pressurize fuel to carb. and check for leakage every where. If No Leaks, Install Spark Plugs and prime engine for start. Attempt start and re-check for oil pressure.. in 30 seconds (+).
Run engine at idle or slightly above idle for about 5 minutes with 2nd person in cock pit and other person looking for leaks (problems) to signal shut down.
*** I was wondering about the camshaft flash rusting along with cyl. walls rusting as well. Should I bore scope the cyl. walls to inspect for flash rust damage. Now's the time to remove the jugs and hone cyl. walls. If they are flash rusted, this will be a big problem in the near future. I can expect -- high oil consumption and lost of compression... rings will be wrecked.
Does anyone know of Good Additives that really work in aircraft engines and worth the money. Some have an Teflon Additive and really work... or so I've heard. I've used Lukas Oil Treatment in HD diesels and it works well. I see a drop in oil temperatures (about 35 deg's.) when used in engines and gear boxes. I've used it trucks as my own controlled experiment. I had a customer that had 5 trucks that were exactly the same. He wanted it installed in all his trucks, eng., trans. and rears. I added Lucas to one of his trucks and did a road test up a mountain road. I recorded the gauge temperatures in the cab (eng., trans., and rears) with Lucas installed. I used my IR heat gun to shoot the -- engine oil pan, trans. case and rears with & recorded temp's. I took one his other trucks out and recorded the same data but no Lucas. I noted that ... the box temp's. were about 25 to 35 degree lower with Lucas. I assume that the formula in Lucas has a Teflon base or ??? to lower the internal friction of the engine (runs cooler).
I'm not selling Lucas to anyone. When I worked (70's) for Cummins, they would/ could void your engine warranty. So, it was smart to not tell Cummins that you had oil additives in your engine. Currently, I use it in all my engines and have never had a failure of any kind. I think it (Lucas) may have saved me on one particular engine that was known for its camshaft failure at higher mileage (500 K).
I may have missed something's but this is what I thought I'd do. Looking for advice from other folks that have worked on aircraft that have set for a long period of time.
Thanks.
Avery
I'm a A & P but have never dealt with an aircraft that has set this long, about 16 years. Yes, I realize that this is not the only issue. I want to deal with the engines (mostly) on this specific post.
What I have in mind:
Remove Spark plugs and spray 10 wt. oil in cylinders and hand turn the engine through several times to lubricate cyl. walls. Take Cyl. Leakage readings & record. Clean spark plugs, rack them for reinstall a little later.
Drain All Fuel and Purge Fuel Lines, then re-service with fresh fuel and all filters.
Replace battery and make sure it's fully charged.
Change Oil, Filter and screen(s).
Inspect Cyl's. for mouse or birds nests with cowling off. Check all lines and connections to engine. This aircraft has some fuel lines that are A D'd and this is the time to comply with the reoccurring AD.
After all the (above) items are completed, connect battery and re-load a small amount of 10 wt. oil in cyl's. . Turn engine backwards by hand with spark plugs still out. After this, turn engine over (by starter) to read oil pressure on aircraft gauge, about 30 seconds. Check for any leaks after engine crank. Will have small amount of oil from spark plugs holes, clean oil up. Install about 10 gals per tank and check for leaks (everywhere). Select Prime and pressurize fuel to carb. and check for leakage every where. If No Leaks, Install Spark Plugs and prime engine for start. Attempt start and re-check for oil pressure.. in 30 seconds (+).
Run engine at idle or slightly above idle for about 5 minutes with 2nd person in cock pit and other person looking for leaks (problems) to signal shut down.
*** I was wondering about the camshaft flash rusting along with cyl. walls rusting as well. Should I bore scope the cyl. walls to inspect for flash rust damage. Now's the time to remove the jugs and hone cyl. walls. If they are flash rusted, this will be a big problem in the near future. I can expect -- high oil consumption and lost of compression... rings will be wrecked.
Does anyone know of Good Additives that really work in aircraft engines and worth the money. Some have an Teflon Additive and really work... or so I've heard. I've used Lukas Oil Treatment in HD diesels and it works well. I see a drop in oil temperatures (about 35 deg's.) when used in engines and gear boxes. I've used it trucks as my own controlled experiment. I had a customer that had 5 trucks that were exactly the same. He wanted it installed in all his trucks, eng., trans. and rears. I added Lucas to one of his trucks and did a road test up a mountain road. I recorded the gauge temperatures in the cab (eng., trans., and rears) with Lucas installed. I used my IR heat gun to shoot the -- engine oil pan, trans. case and rears with & recorded temp's. I took one his other trucks out and recorded the same data but no Lucas. I noted that ... the box temp's. were about 25 to 35 degree lower with Lucas. I assume that the formula in Lucas has a Teflon base or ??? to lower the internal friction of the engine (runs cooler).
I'm not selling Lucas to anyone. When I worked (70's) for Cummins, they would/ could void your engine warranty. So, it was smart to not tell Cummins that you had oil additives in your engine. Currently, I use it in all my engines and have never had a failure of any kind. I think it (Lucas) may have saved me on one particular engine that was known for its camshaft failure at higher mileage (500 K).
I may have missed something's but this is what I thought I'd do. Looking for advice from other folks that have worked on aircraft that have set for a long period of time.
Thanks.
Avery
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