47cubpilot
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- Joined
- Jul 27, 2015
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In order to check the straightness of the nose wheel steering horn, I built this jig about 30 years ago using a straight steering horn. (The cross hole for the pin is worn) I brazed a washer on it where the air/nitrogen fitting goes to help center it.
(That is rib stitching cord to show the relative alignment)
The center bolts are 1" apart, 7/8" above & 1/8" below the center line. The shimmy damper bolt hole is 1/16" below the center line. The steering arm bolt holes are 9" apart. (The yardstick looks wrong because of the perspective. Same in the next photo)
Here is what it looks like with the horn in place.
That is a 3/16" drill bit, because I didn't have a 1/4" one to use! I'm not certain that a 1/4" bit would actually fit like that. It would be very close.
Yes, you do have to remove the horn to check it, but that is not really that hard of a job.
The jig is made out of 1/8" steel so can be used to straighten a horn that is not too badly bent. Just use a little heat and let naturally cool.
For a quick check in place I made this piece that fits against the back side. Just reach in and see if it looks bent.
(That is rib stitching cord to show the relative alignment)
The center bolts are 1" apart, 7/8" above & 1/8" below the center line. The shimmy damper bolt hole is 1/16" below the center line. The steering arm bolt holes are 9" apart. (The yardstick looks wrong because of the perspective. Same in the next photo)
Here is what it looks like with the horn in place.
That is a 3/16" drill bit, because I didn't have a 1/4" one to use! I'm not certain that a 1/4" bit would actually fit like that. It would be very close.
Yes, you do have to remove the horn to check it, but that is not really that hard of a job.
The jig is made out of 1/8" steel so can be used to straighten a horn that is not too badly bent. Just use a little heat and let naturally cool.
For a quick check in place I made this piece that fits against the back side. Just reach in and see if it looks bent.
